Question:
Slr film camera question?
anonymous
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Slr film camera question?
Six answers:
?
2008-04-05 02:01:15 UTC
Check at amazon.com or ebay and buy a copy of "Object & Image: An Introduction To Photography, Third Edition" by George M. Craven. You might also look for "How To Select & Use Canon SLR Cameras" by Carl Shipman.
V2K1
2008-04-04 19:55:20 UTC
There's not room here to answer your questions.



Go over to amazon.com and order Photography For Dummies.



If you're serious about taking pictures it'll tell you everything you need to know.



V
Jeffery H K
2008-04-04 17:50:03 UTC
Of course you can use loweer numbers in darker areas without flash, however it could be more blurry because the picture takes longer and any movement can be seen.



Standard flash speed is 60. If your flash has several tiny buttons on the bottem that matches buttons on the shoe, it can communicate settings with the camera for best exposure.



If you have a zoom lens or telephoto lens, the speed setting should be larger than the lens length for hand held shots or shake may make it blurry.



If you half press the button you should see a meter in the viewfinder that should show you if you are too high or low
Bob H
2008-04-04 18:09:21 UTC
That's a very nice old camera. OK load ISO 400 color negative film. Lift the knob on the right (usually) and turn it to 400. Then look on the lens, on the ring furthest back,where it says: 1.8-16, or 2-16 or something like that, and the more sun, the more number. If it's really bright: f16 or f11. Inside try f2 or f18. an average boring day, maybe f8. If you've gone this far, you can either turn it to "AUTO" and shoot away, or look at the meter thru the viewfinder, and turn the shutter speed dial till the arrows or arrows line up. On a nice day, this will probably happen at 1/250 or 1/500. Have fun.
WalshyFerdinand
2008-04-04 18:01:57 UTC
Welcome to the wonderful, technical world of film photography! =D



1. 1600 - 0 are -- at least on my Pentax K1000 -- is shutter speeds. You are right, it is how long the negative is exposed to light. 1 means 1 minute, where as 1600 is .1600 of a second, so it's really fast.

General rule: Fast shutter speed (60x and above) usually has these effects:

+Ability to freeze motion, so it is really sharp. An example is a waterfall, the water would be harsh, and frozen in time.

+But since it is really fast, little light enters, so you need a fast film (High iso, 400 and above is generally used with fast film)



A slow shutter speed (60 and below, B is for bulb, in which the shutter remains open as long as you want it) is very fascinating .

+ The motion, if captured, is blurry. Again, with the waterfall, the water would be soft and floaty.

+ More light enters, so you want a slower film (20-200) (Slower film means it is not as sensitive to light, unlike the high iso films). You can use 400 iso film, though, but use a smaller aperture.

+ You know those pictures of cars , or cities with streaks of light? It's done with a slow shutter speed. since the shutter is open for a long time, you will want to steady the camera -- a tripod, or flat surface will suffice. 1/60 you can still hold the camera.



You also need to understand the aperture. The aperture is the widening or closing of the lens, which you can control. (It is on the lens and has numbers on it like 22, 16,11,8,5.6,4). A small aperture (22-8) allows for little light to come in, but everything is in sharp depth of field (Where everything is in focus). Ansel Adams is a good example, his pictures are a good example for sharp depth of field. 5.6 and above is a bigger opening and has a shallow depth of field (Some parts are in focus, others are not), but allows for more light to come in.

So, now for lighting situations! ( A picture in a dark place with no flash and so on).

What you really want is a light meter. Your camera should have one, inside. It's through the lens, and a little line with a plus and negative. you need a batter (My camera is like that) and the line will move up or down, according to your lighting situation. but here's what i have learned:

1. Sunny place: You will want a higher shutter speed, with film around 400 iso. If too much light comes in, the picture is over explosed. However, there are other comboniations:

- Small aperture (say.. f/8), 60 shutter speed, 400 iso

- Medium aperture, 400 iso and shutter speed at 60.

- Use slow film, so that it won't be over exposed (Around 200 iso. that's the ideal for a sunny setting).



2. Dark areas: You can open up the aperture (5.6 and above) , for more light to come in.

Other possibilities:

-Have a slow shutter speed (60 and below), but that will require a tripod or something to steady the camera with.

-Have a really high speed film (400-3200). Film of 800 iso is used in concerts, or was...

However, if you are using a wide aperture and a slow shutter speed, stick with 400 iso. I've done it before. I took a picture of the full moon, and had the shutter open for half a second ( I think) with an aperture of 5.6 and the film's iso was 400. The picture came out properly exposed and such. Never underestimate 400 iso. I did that once, kept the shutter open for 15th of a second, in a low lighting situation, the pictures were horribly over exposed.



Yet you can save yourself a lot of guessing and trouble by buying yourself a light meter. My camera has one in, and that's as modern as I'll go with my personal photography. Don't let it fully control you, though, and after a while and you become used to lighting, you will be able to choose and know your results. What I do is first try to adjust the camera's settings on my own, and then see what the light meter says.



More tips:

+ Never get it in the sand! Never! Don't even think, "oh, i'll set it here for a while...it's a little bit of sand". That will harm the camera.

+ Don't get it wet

+ Try to avoid extreme weather conditions.

+ If you are going to get wet, try to buy a housing unit first.

+ Have a good, strong strap for your camera.

+ don't drop it.



Using it:

Selecting the iso: Usually, the iso can be selected on the same knob where you select the shutter speed. There should be ridges on it, and just lift and the little number should move when you twist it. Ask your dad.



Good luck and enjoy your shooting!

Just keep in mind, you will ruin a lot of film -- I have. I'm just starting to get the hang of it, and I've been shooting for two years now. Don't give up, and develope an eye for composition. Learn the rule of 3rds, it is invaluable.

Have fun! And good luck,

Samantha

Contact me any time if you need help.
John T
2008-04-04 18:56:23 UTC
Congrats on the A1--it's a great camera. Mine are my primary 35mm cameras. Do yourself a favor and download a users manual--they are far to sophisticated to be explained in this venue. Just a couple of things you need to know that you may not catch in the manual. To set the ASA/ISO speed you have to push in the small silver button on the ASA dial. Othewise you just change the exposure compensation scale setting. Line up the small white mark on the outside of the dial with the correct ASA/ISO. Just to the right, that dial are 2 buttons, the larger of the two is the battery check button, there is a little lever around this button. If you push the lever to the right (the white dot is exposed) the visual display in the viewfinder is turned on. It's an LED display visible at the bottom of the viewfinder. One last thing before I actually get to your question, if you get nothing but a series of Es in the bottom of the viewfinder you have to reset the electronics for the camera to work correctly. Push the multiple exposure lever (located under the film advance lever) to the left. Then manipulate the film advance lever. The multiple exposure lever will pop back out and your display should then work.



The knob on the right side is called the AT dial--you use it to set the aperature (yelow dial) or the exposure time (white numbers). In Tv you also have the option of using Program mode. If your lens aperature ring is set to "A" then you set the exposure time to any value (including "P") and press the shutter release. If the display flashes you don't have enough light. If you have selected a shutter speed you need to select a slower shutter speed. If you have selected "P" you need more light. With the yellow dial showing you select your desired aperature and the camera automatically determines the shutter speed.



The Canon 199A flash works with the A1 in full program mode and does a good job of taking the guess out of flash photography.



Like I said, download the manual (it's free) and do yourself a favor. It's 89 pages long, but you don't have to print it. Just save it so you can refer to it if you need. I'll also include another link that has a lot of information about the A1 and its accessories.



Have fun, that's a great camera you have there.


This content was originally posted on Y! Answers, a Q&A website that shut down in 2021.
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