Question:
35mm film and info about negative scanners?
Walter Carlos
2009-02-01 15:50:27 UTC
I've recently learned about 35mm film scanners that let you scan the negatives from the film strip directly to a PC in high resolution. Anyone had any experience with these?

Ideally, I'd like to be able to skip the grocery store processing lab, and scan my own negatives at home. I've seen some videos online about popping open the film canister and removing the film- but they warn against double exposing the film by opening in the light.

Is there anything different about the negative strips that the photo processing labs supply in your photo pouch? They are only placed in clear plastic wrapping, and seem like they could be easily exposed to light themselves. Would a film scanning machine have to be used in the dark? Also, how do the photo labs gets the strips to lay flat, instead of springy and coiled?

Thanks for all those who can offer their input!
Five answers:
anonymous
2009-02-01 16:59:51 UTC
There are basically 2 kinds of scanners that can handle developed (processed) film. You have flat bed scanners and small desk top box looking things, like a loaf of bread and these are dedicated film scanners. The word - dedicated - is implied because that is all they will do, film or slides, while a flat bed scanner can do other things as well.



Flat bed scanners that have the built in equipment and ability to scan film are cheaper. Some flat bed scanners can do film up to 4x5 and even 8x10. A dedicated film scanner is this size would be VERY expensive.



Quality.. The quality is getting closer and closer between the two and a Epson flat bed scanner's quality with film ability is way over and above what was available 10 years ago. My Epson is better than my Minolta film scanner. However the Minolta IS almost 10 years old. Epson scanners that can do film start around $100 and go up to $700 +/-.



Look for true optical resolution. Also look for a high D-Max. A number like 3.2 to 3.4 is good, but get the highest you can afford for this is the ability to record and look into the high's and low's of the film (the light and dark areas) and get detail.



As said, the film HAS to be developed first. Any place can develop the film. Wal Green's. Wal Mart. CVS.. it don't matter, just ask for develop only. NO prints. Scanning the film will NOT hurt it and being exposed to light, after developing, will not hurt the film either. 99% of the stuff that makes up film is the plastic base that carries the emulsion that the image is in. If the film is coiled up and left for a period of time a memory sets in and it wants to stay in a coil. However, if cut into strips and slipped into the pages, time and some weight can make them all lay flat again, and they will stay this way.



Film scanners can change any film camera into a 'digital camera' thru their ability to scan the film that went thru the camera. By doing it this way you can have a "full frame digital" and because the scanners resoultion will often be higher than any pro digital 35mm type camera, you now get better images, in a way, than the digital camera could.



Something to think about..



Bob - Tucson
Jt C
2009-02-01 15:58:25 UTC
Film scanners will work with developed film only you would not be able to use undeveoped film and "skip the grocery store processing " The ones you get back from the lab have been placed in one or more chemicals called developers for the proper time at the proper temperature to bring up the image, then put though a stop bath to stop the deveoping process at the right point then put unto a fixer to react the remaining silver so the negative will no longer be light sensative, then washed and dried before they put it in the plastic sleeve.



That said dedicated film scanners are the best way to get developed film images into a digital format
Pookyâ„¢
2009-02-01 16:39:12 UTC
The film needs to be, like the first answer stated, developed first. Today's negative films can be processed generally in C-41 chemicals. (See here: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/business/retailPhoto/techInfo/zManuals/z131.jhtml?pq-path=12338 ).



It's not as difficult as it appears if you have done some black and white before, but nevertheless, to get consistent results, you have to follow the direction to the letter. Any variation or contamination of any chemical will ruin the film.



It will be much easier for you if you send the film to a local one-hour lab, and have them 'delvelop" only, cut into strips (and inserted into the plastic protector thingie so they won't be damaged. Then you can scan the strips with a negative scanner.
?
2016-05-27 15:48:09 UTC
I'm a bit confused. CVS was able to actually develop the negatives, right? Just not print them? Could they not make prints at all or they just couldn't make prints with the sprocket area showing? Minilabs are only set-up to do standard 35mm and half 35mm scans/prints. You cannot get them to print the sprocket area because that would enlarge the image size and change the aspect ratio of the final image. They simply don't have the ability to do it. For printing the sprocket area you would need to have the negatives custom printed by a professional lab or you'd have to scan them yourself at home using a 120 adapter with the 35mm film, make a file, then print the file at home or at a lab (preferably at a lab!) I hope this helps! Good luck and keep enjoying film!
Arthur M
2009-02-01 16:58:50 UTC
Like the others mentioned, you have to get the film developed first.



Once developed, the Epson V500 is a v good scanner for under $200


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