The ISO "speed" of film is just a method of properly calibrating your camera's metering system. If you dialed in ISO 400 on your camera and used ISO 200 film, your camera would just underexpose everything by -1EV.
In reality, this is no different than if you left the setting at ISO 200 and just changed your aperture/shutter speed until the metering system showed -1EV on your camera. The results would be the same.
There is a technique called "pushing" whereby you can use your film at a different ISO.
This used to be done to get better low-light performance when films of the day were not that fast.
Say you had ISO 200 film, but used ISO 400 on the meter (or just mentally calculated -1EV).
Then, when you took the film to the processor, you would tell them you pushed the film by -1EV, and they would over process it by the same amount to get film correctly exposed.
But this could not be done on an individual photo - it had to be the whole roll.
I doubt anyone is around at the film processor anymore that would know how to do this.
One problem with pushing though. You can go 1EV, and perhaps 2EV, but any more and the limits of the film are such that you get to the point where you reach "reciprocity failure", where the inverse-square-law no longer works. That is, doubling or halving the shutter speed or f-stop relationship no longer works.
In short, reciprocity failure means that if you go say -3EV, the lab cannot recover the proper exposure (and all of the detail of the photo), by using +3EV.